Off the beaten track
Lighthouse Bay, Bruny Island.
Ancient rivers meander through pristine rainforest, winter snow dusts craggy mountain peaks, and blue seas wash an endless coastline. Australia’s island state is just the spot for those seeking natural wonders.
Words: John Pedler
Iconic destinations like Bay of Fires, Wineglass Bay, Cradle Mountain and the Gordon River have long attracted local and international travellers. Beyond these remarkable landscapes, Tasmania has a wealth of other natural delights and experiences to enjoy.
In the state’s remote north-west, the 450,000 hectare Takayna/Tarkine region is a near-impenetrable rainforest wilderness. Much of the area is only accessible along four-wheel drive trails, walking tracks and waterways.
Departing from Corinna Wilderness Village, the vessel Arcadia II carries passengers deep into the rainforest along the Pieman River. Built in 1939 from Tassie’s famous Huon pine, Arcadia II has had a remarkable career, including a role as a supply ship in New Guinea during World War II. At the river mouth, face the vastness of the Southern Ocean as you stroll along one of Tasmania’s most remote beaches.
Take a closer look at the Pieman River and its backwaters aboard a kayak from Corinna Wilderness Village. With the splash of the paddle and the breeze in the trees for a soundtrack, embrace fresh air, utter tranquillity – and exercise – in one of the world’s wildest frontiers.
About 10km west of Waratah, a 2km-return hike through lush forest leads to a stunning view of Philosopher Falls, which tumbles down a steep rock face into the undergrowth.
Along the way, keep an eye out for colourful, alien-esque fungal growths. South-west of Roseberry, a three-hour return hike among giant ferns and tall timber follows the alignment of an old mining tramway to the 104m-high Montezuma Falls – one of the highest waterfalls in Tasmania. The view skyward from the base of the cascades is breathtaking, and there are sensational views of the falls and surrounding forest from a nearby suspension bridge.
Up-close with wildlife.
Boat Harbour.
The thick moss, fungi and lichen growths on the wooden rail bridges add to the timeless beauty of this place, and highlight nature’s relentless effort to reclaim the forest.
For beach lovers, there’s nearly 3000km of coastline to explore, plus a sprinkling of islands. On the north coast, the tiny town of Boat Harbour has an equally tiny, and picture-perfect beach. The harbour’s clear, clean waters are sheltered between two headlands and in summer, surf lifesavers keep an eye on swimmers.
Further east, between Port Sorrell and Greens Beach, Narawntapu National Park has some cracking seaside patches of sand. Badger Beach and Bakers Beach are backed by an area of coastal heath, woodland and wetlands, which are home to plenty of Tassie’s furry residents. Not only can visitors enjoy beach life, but a stroll through the park at dusk will almost certainly include encounters with kangaroos, wallabies or pademelons.
For a remote beach escape a couple of hours from Hobart, head for Cockle Creek, the southernmost point in Australia that you can reach by car. Here, the forest tumbles down to meet the sand and sea at a place of dreamlike beauty. If you’re planning an overnight stay, there are few facilities apart from campgrounds, so be sure to carry a tent and whatever tasty Huon Valley farm produce you gather along the way.
Seals, Bruny Island.
Walking track to Philosopher Falls.
This is also the starting point for several walking trails of varying lengths, from short, local jaunts to the 85-km long South Coast Track – a six to eight-day trek that requires a plane pickup at the other end.
For a beach adventure like no other, head for Lake Rhona. It’s a 28km, two-day to three-day return trek along a hilly trail and across a river just to get to the lake, and it’s nowhere near the sea.
But if you have the energy, bushwalking experience and preparedness, you’ll find yourself camping at a pinkish, lakeside beach, hidden among towering rock spires deep in the Franklin Gordon Wild Rivers National Park. Take that, Instagram!
If you’re keen on an island holiday away from your island holiday, it’s only a short ferry ride from Kettering – 30 minutes south of Hobart – to Bruny Island. Here you’ll find a mix of wildlife encounters, bushland and forest retreats, dramatic coastal scenery and fresh local produce.
A highlight of a Bruny Island motoring trip is travelling the narrow passage, anatomically named The Neck, that links the north and south parts of the island. Best viewed from atop 279 steps at Truganini Lookout, The Neck is a narrow sand isthmus flanked by a gorgeous beach and the Southern Ocean on the eastern side, and the sheltered waters of Isthmus Bay to the west.
At dusk in the warmer months, head to the viewing platform near the base of the lookout stairway to watch adorable little penguins waddle ashore to their burrows.
Wildlife enthusiasts should find wallaby spotting much easier on Bruny Island because many of the local marsupials are white.
Arcadia II sails along Pieman River.
Due to a genetic hiccup, the island is home to albino Bennett’s wallabies, which are regularly seen at Adventure Bay. While at the bay, you’ll encounter yet another of Tasmania’s wonderful beaches. This is also the departure point for spectacular cruises that take guests on a thrilling trip into sea caves and beneath mighty cliffs and towering pillars. In this wild, edge-of-the-world location, expect to see dolphins playing in the surf and seals lolling about on the rocks.
While you’re exploring Bruny Island, you might find your car slowly filling up with cheese, honey, chocolate, beer, wine, whisky, oysters and raspberries. Local producers have embraced the island’s clean environment to turn out an impressive range of goodies to fill a hamper or two.
Tasmania is famous worldwide for its pristine landscapes, fresh air and remote wilderness areas. Like a nature theme park, most of the attractions are within easy driving distance of the main centres, and you’ll discover a scenic treat around nearly every bend in the road.
Some of the locations mentioned here are within the state’s magnificent national parks, so make sure you arrange a parks pass before you head off on your motoring adventure.
Produce at Bruny Island Cheese Co.
IMAGES: Tourism Tasmania/Jess Bonde, Adam Gibson, Glenn Gibson, Stu Gibson, S. Group, Samuel Shelley.
Ready to tour the Apple Isle?
An RAA travel agent can help you plan your Tasmanian getaway. Visit travel.raa.com.au/tasmania
