Island time
Tegalalang Rice Terraces.
Bali is known for being a tropical paradise with stunning beaches, cheap cocktails and spectacular scenery. Scratch the surface and you’ll find lovely locals, cuisine rivalling other South-East Asian destinations and rich history and culture.
Words: Jeremy Rochow
When Bali was created, Mother Nature must have loved green. Standing among hundreds of rice paddies, mud caked on my shoes, the scenery before me looks like it’s been brushed with thousands of shades of this refreshing, tranquil colour. Lush ferns dot the landscape, rice paddies create a carpet of green, and a darker hue covers the hills and mountains.
I’m here, immersed in this scenery, with my partner May and daughters Heidi, four, and Matilda, two. We’re on a farm tour as part of a cooking class, trekking between rice paddies along a narrow path only wide enough for one foot at a time.
May carries Matilda while I guide Heidi along the path, but with the air hot and sticky, the little ones tire easily. Picking up Heidi so she can rest, I slip and slide, almost toppling into the knee-high water on either side of me.
Our guide, an ever-smiling Balinese farmer and cooking instructor, strolls along the tight-rope of paths as if he’s taking a Sunday stroll along the beach. Seeing me struggling, he scoops up Heidi and hoists her on to his back and continues on his merry way.
Heidi clings to him as he plays “hopscotch” dodging puddles and expertly navigating makeshift mud steps. My young daughter quickly becomes his little helper, picking vegetables for our meal and carrying the basket of ingredients.
As we get ready for the long walk back to the kitchen, the Balinese man, grinning enthusiastically, once again hoists Heidi on to his shoulders and makes his way along the slender track. This is just one occasion during our recent Bali escape when the Balinese people showed kindness and warmth to our children.
Forget any preconceived ideas you have that Bali is just Bintang, beaches and Instagram influencers. This island paradise offers so much more.
Rice paddies in Sidemen.
Babi guling.
A pork feast
Bali’s classic pork meal, babi guling, is an odd dish to find in a country that has the largest Muslim majority population in the world. But here I am at a warung (a small Indonesian café or eatery) in Ubud, tucking into a large plate of babi guling – Indonesian roasted suckling pig.
There’s the obligatory white rice surrounded by an array of delightful little treats. In Bali they use every part of the pig, which is slathered in aromatics and cooked over an open fire. On my plate, I find crispy crackling that resembles a thin shard of toffee and juicy meat so tender it can be pulled apart with your fingers. Then there’s the sambal matah – a fragrant raw slaw-like topping made from chillies, coconut, shallots and makrut lime – that finishes the dish.
Babi guling can be found at many warungs around Bali, but the always-busy Babi Guling Ibu Oka in Ubud is a favourite.
Chasing waterfalls
In a place as green and tropical as Bali, there are bound to be fast-flowing rivers and waterfalls. In the areas surrounding Ubud, there are several worth checking out.
While it’s about an hour from Ubud, the 15m Leke Leke waterfall should be on the top of any traveller’s to-do list. Surrounded by lush, green forests and colourful flowers, this narrow waterfall is set in a cave. The spectacular location is a photographer’s paradise.
A bit closer to Ubud, in the village of Beng, the Kanto Lampo waterfall offers a picturesque location for a swim. This waterfall runs down a rocky cliff wall before it reaches a shallow pool at the bottom. Not only is it easily accessible with a five-minute walk down some stairs, it’s also a great place for the whole family to swim.
Kanto Lampo waterfall.
Family-friendly Bali
At a local food market near Sidemen in the eastern region of Bali, we explore the many aisles of food, from fruit and vegetables to grains, rice and even livestock. The stallholders smile at Matilda and Heidi, say “Cantik” – the Bahasa Indonesian word for beautiful – and generously offer them fruit. The Balinese really do love children, which makes it an ideal spot for a family holiday.
Food is a great way to bring a family together. Back in the Balinese rice paddies in Sidemen, our Balinese cooking instructor presents Heidi and Matilda with their very own aprons, which the two girls don proudly as we begin our culinary experience. A large bowl of coconut shavings sits on the table, and within minutes Heidi and I are squeezing the flesh with water to make our own coconut milk. After a couple of hours of cooking, a colourful spread of Balinese dishes sits on the table, ready to be devoured by the group.
For older kids, or kids at heart, Waterbom park offers an adrenaline rush. Fly down a range of slides, including the always popular Boomerang. This exhilarating slide sees riders plummet down a rainbow tube before zooming up a wall and then gliding back down into the water below. For those looking for a more relaxing experience, hang out in one of the gazebos or float down Lazy River in a tube.
Tirta Empul Temple.
Get a little spiritual
Peering through a small gate at Tirta Empul – one of Bali’s largest and busiest water temples – we observe dozens of people showering themselves under spouts as part of a purification ritual. The water in the pools is believed to have magical powers.
While there are thousands of tourists who flock to this temple – making the location an Instagram hotspot – many local Balinese also come here to purify themselves under the 30 water spouts that feed the pools. This Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu, the god of water, is just one of about 20,000 sacred sites across Bali, with many open to the public.
Swinging above rice terraces in Sidemen.
Rice, rice and more rice
The Tegalalang Rice Terraces in Ubud are a must-visit tourist destination. The rice paddies etched into the hillside showcase Bali’s unique irrigation system, which has been used since the eighth century. They also provide visitors with a stunning view that can’t be found anywhere else in the world.
Just remember, as you descend into the valley below that you’ll have to make the climb out again. With Matilda on my shoulders and the humidity reaching the point of being almost unbearable, I make my way up the steep track. Looking up, at the top of the valley I can see our Balinese driver, who hasn’t even broken a sweat, smiling at me. In his arms, being carried again, Heidi waves and says, “Come on Dad, hurry up.”
Where to Stay
Impiana Private Villas Seminyak: Great for couples, families or groups with one-to-five bedroom villas available.
Maya Ubud Resort and Spa: A luxury mountain escape, perfect for couples.
Bali Dynasty Resort: A favourite resort for families, featuring a kids’ pool and 200ft-long water slide.
Padma Resort Legian: Stylish accommodation in a lush beachfront location.
IMAGES: Getty, RAA, Vivien Maes.
Ready to experience Bali?
Let RAA’s travel agents take the stress out of organising your next holiday. Visit travel.raa.com.au or call 8202 4589.
