A sacred place
In Australia’s far north lies a timeless landscape, home to one of the world’s oldest cultures. You’ll find rugged coastlines, monsoon-drenched woodlands of woollybutts and pandanus palms, and tranquil, lily pad-specked lagoons teeming with fish and birdlife. Welcome to Arnhem Land.
Words: Andrew Rasch
“Gululu (welcome),” Besma Gurruwiwi from the Galpu clan says, smiling broadly, as I stroll to an inviting stretch of Wirrwawuy Beach on the Gove Peninsula.
I’ve joined 14 other holidaymakers and our tour guide Greg for Outback Spirit’s 12-night Arnhem Land Wetlands and Wildlife adventure from Cairns to Darwin. I’m here for a Welcome to Country ceremony, celebrating the Yolngu people’s stories and connection to the land.
Brandishing bunches of stringybark leaves, wry-humoured Vernon Gurruwiwi leads his uncles, brothers and other clan men as they dance, gesture and vocalise to the sound of clapsticks, to respect their ancestors’ traditions.
We watch the men unearth yams and place them in their shoulder-slung tucker bags and experience their sense of joy and relief when they find fresh spring water. The next part of the ceremony is truly special. The men and women line up separately, with the men facing the water, and we clap and stomp in time to acknowledge the setting sun. I feel honoured to join this ancient ritual and it’s the perfect way to immerse myself in the spirit and culture of this sacred corner of Australia.
A bush medicine demonstration awaits. Besma and the other women crush citrus-scented Butjirinaning leaves and add water to create an oily pulp, then apply it to our group’s sore spots. The Yolngu people have used these leaves for thousands of years to treat aches, pains and other maladies.
Welcome to Country ceremony, Arnhem Land.
NATURE’S CANVAS
The warm and moving Welcome to Country has me craving more art and culture. This makes Arnhem Land the place to be, with the world’s most concentrated amount of rock art and largest-known depiction of a rainbow serpent. The six metre, red and white serpent – painted on the ceiling of a sandstone rock shelter near Mount Borradaile – has a toothy mouth, hooked tail and is linked with water, fauna and the creation of the land and its people.
The serpent was unknown to non-Aboriginal people until 1987, when local hunter and founder of Davidson’s Arnhemland Safari Lodge, Max Davidson, discovered it. Even Max’s friend, Charlie Mungulda – the last member of the local Amurdak people, and now in his nineties – didn’t know about this site at the time, but he’s since interpreted the art for everyone’s benefit.
Indigenous rock art, West Arnhem.
“It still gives me goosebumps,” our passionate guide Cameron says.
We cruise the stunningly beautiful Cooper Creek en route to more rock art. Filled with (mostly unseen) crocodiles, barramundi and archer fish (which spit water to catch their prey perched above), Cooper Creek is also home to about 265 bird species. Cameron delights us by pointing out majestic, white-bellied sea eagles soaring above searching for fish, a pair of jabirus wading in the shallows, and darters drying their wings in the tropical air.
After climbing an ancient ocean-carved escarpment, we arrive at an art-covered sandstone cave that has me craning my neck to take it all in. There are red, yellow and white stencils; the red versions are formed by grinding red ochre rocks together, placing the dust in the mouth and spraying it over the hand. I see snakes, frill-necked lizards, wallabies and elders doing a kangaroo dance.
Rock art is only part of Arnhem Land’s story. Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Art Centre, in Yirrkala, houses a huge array of bark paintings and other artworks. This includes the Yolngu bark petitions, which started the Aboriginal Land Rights movement when they were presented to Federal Parliament in 1963.
At Maningrida Arts Centre, I watch local artist Doreen Jinggarrabarra and her daughter Stephanie turn pandanus leaves into fibres to make dillybags for gathering and transporting bush tucker. Doreen explains how she dyes the bags with natural materials such as ash and ochre to create colourful designs.
PARADISE ON THE PENINSULA
Now for a change of environment. Seven Spirit Bay Lodge’s reputation precedes it and what a treat to see it for myself. When author James Hilton described the fictional Shangri-La in his novel Lost Horizon, I wonder if he’d envisioned accommodation like this. Owned by Outback Spirit since 2015, this heavenly haven on Cobourg Peninsula has luxury villas, a rock pool and balconies overlooking the bay. It’s hard to leave but today there’s a worthwhile reason.
The tropical morning sun forms a glistening wedge of light on the water as we bounce across the Arafura Sea on our Naiad boat, towards the Victoria Settlement ruins in Garig Gunak Barlu National Park. Our knowledgeable guide Gemma leads us through the peaceful tropical savanna forest.
We learn about Britain’s attempt to establish a settlement here at Port Essington in 1838 before the people succumbed to isolation and disease 11 years later. All that’s left of the settlement are ruins of the old buildings, including the Governor’s residence, the 16-person hospital, church and military quarters.
Villa at Seven Spirit Bay Lodge, Cobourg Peninsula
GONE FISHIN’
Fishing is quite a contrast from the Victoria Settlement. But thanks to permission from the Yolngu people, we’re able to cruise on the Liverpool River at Maningrida after boarding a seven-metre Ocean Master vessel with our skipper, Leigh. We use lures to try catching barramundi, snapper and mangrove jack that congregate near the snake-like, twisted roots of the green mangroves.
We see egrets and brahminy kites but, alas, we don’t catch any fish. But we’re excited to see three saltwater crocodiles in the mangroves, seemingly in a trance but well aware of our presence. “Remember it’s a fishing trip not a catching trip,” Leigh says. He’s right – sometimes, the anticipation and the environment is what makes a fishing trip special.
Fishing near Seven Spirit Bay proves more fruitful. Here, our skipper Jason takes us to the calm Knocker Bay for more trawling. It’s a thrill to remove three more fish species from my must-catch list – a queenfish and a giant trevally which we release, and a Spanish mackerel which we keep, because they’re delicious.
Sunset cruise, Darwin Harbour Cruises.
THE FINAL SUNSET
I’m on the top deck of the Charles Darwin, watching the fading sun create a shaft of burnt orange light on the water, as it slips behind the clouds and below the horizon.
I’ve been in the Top End for 13 days. A short stretch in my lifetime, but one that’s given me vivid memories I’ll carry forever. I’ve discovered so much about this remote area of Australia and seen and heard the passion of the people who call it home. Our beautiful country is full of surprises, with new places to explore and new wonders to experience.
Being present in this final moment is symbolic. I can’t help thinking that as the sun sinks over Darwin Harbour, it’s a touching metaphor for the end of my trip.
There’s just one problem: I don’t want to go home.
IMAGES: Getty, Journey Beyond.
