Coves and coastline
South Australians have long been drawn to the Yorke Peninsula for weekends and school holidays, and it’s easy to see why.
Words: John Pedler
Low-key tourism and a laid-back country vibe convey a sense of timelessness that’s attracted generations of holidaying families.
Along the shores of Gulf St Vincent and Spencer Gulf, there’s a string of welcoming fishing and farming towns.
The far south coast, facing into the wilds of the Southern Ocean, is known for long sandy beaches, mighty surf, secret coves and towering cliffs.
Whether it’s fishing, sightseeing, swimming, or just staring blankly out to sea with your favourite drop in hand, there’s something for everyone to enjoy on SA’s leg-shaped peninsula.
Fisherfolk
The steady stream of boats that head to the Yorke Peninsula during the holidays suggests there might be a fish or two offshore.
While boaties will likely fill their eskies with bumper catches of whiting and squid, shore-based anglers can score a decent feed from one of the many jetties and beaches.
On the west coast, toss a crab net off Moonta Bay, Port Hughes or Wallaroo jetties, while you’re wetting a line in pursuit of whiting, tommy ruff, squid and garfish.
In the deeper water down south, you might even be lucky enough to reel in a tuna. With the current algal bloom impacting many South Australian coastal regions, including the Yorke Peninsula, make sure you check the State Government's algal bloom website for any information before you head off.
Water world
On a calm day, the Southern Ocean’s blue waters are like a millpond. But a tweak in the weather offshore can send lofty swells marching towards the cliffs and beaches in Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park, on the peninsula’s south-west tip.
Add an offshore breeze to the mix, and surfers flock to the well-formed waves at Chinamans, West Cape, Pondalowie Bay, and north of the national park around Daly Head.
For family fun, spend a day at Port Vincent beach, just a short stroll from the fish ‘n’ chips, burgers and ice-creams available at the popular seaside kiosk.
Nestled in Edithburgh’s rocky shoreline, the town’s swimming pool is fed by the rising Gulf St Vincent tide. At high tide, it’s difficult to distinguish the pool from the sea, but when the water recedes, it’s a great spot for a dip.
The hefty ocean swells off Dhilbra Guuranda-Innes National Park can create challenging swimming conditions, but there are several sheltered inlets in the park ideal for a day at the beach.
Squeezed between two headlands and backed by dunes, Shell Beach is a picture-perfect gem. Just around the corner, the charms of Browns Beach might have you wishing you’d spent less time at Shell Beach.
If you’re keen to park at the water’s edge, manoeuvre your four-wheel drive onto the broad white sands of Flaherty’s Beach, just south of Hardwicke Bay. Facing north, it’s arguably the most sheltered beach on the peninsula, and has even popped up on lists of Australia’s best beaches.
Vehicles can also access North Beach, Wallaroo, a popular hangout as the weather warms up.
The paddocks around Yorketown are dotted with salt lakes that were part of a bustling salt and gypsum mining industry from the late 1800s to the mid-1900s.
When the lakes are full, the mirror-still water creates stunning reflections and makes it hard to tell the water from the sky.
When dry, the sparkling salt crystals display a range of colours including vibrant pink.
Signposted trails direct travellers along the unsealed roads that meander among the lakes and historic sites.
Main: Cape Spencer Lighthouse. Above: Salt lakes.
Tales from the past
The Yorke Peninsula has played a significant role in South Australian history. During the late 1800s the Moonta copper mines were among the most profitable in the country, helping to bankroll a financially struggling state.
Mining ceased in 1923 but much of the infrastructure remains, including the imposing Hughes and Richmans engine houses, which have been faithfully restored by the National Trust of SA.
The extensive mining area can be explored by energetic walkers or via a network of roads. Kids will enjoy a trip through a section of mining area aboard the tourist railway, which departs from the impressive Moonta Mines Model School. The school, built in 1878 to educate miners’ children, is now a museum housing a vast collection of memorabilia, scale models and artefacts.
The Yorke Peninsula’s busy maritime history is highlighted by the many jetties dotted along the coast. Sailing ships from around the world parked offshore while smaller boats shuttled grain and other produce from the jetties.
For a deep dive into the region’s seafaring past, head for the Wallaroo Heritage and Nautical Museum in the old post office. Among a substantial collection of photos and artefacts, you’ll find quirky exhibits like George the giant squid and an albatross that collided with a ship.
Farming buffs may well wander for days among the agricultural equipment and other displays at Kadina’s Farm Shed Museum. And that’s even before they reach the sheds housing dozens of vintage tractors and other classic vehicles.
Ocean Pod, Hillocks Drive.
Wining and dining
South Australia’s awash with famous wine regions and the Yorke Peninsula isn’t one of them. So, it’s a little surprising to bump into award-winning Barley Stacks Wines, just a short drive from the inland town of Maitland. While you’re tasting their range of reds and whites, you can settle in for pizza and a cheese platter.
Several brewers and distillers have embraced the region’s laid-back rural lifestyle and quality produce. The Bond Store in Wallaroo makes gin, liqueurs and a variety of beers brewed with peninsula grain.
Its restaurant sources seasonal local produce to turn out dishes like pan-seared scallops, buttery orange sauce, roasted almonds and sautéed broccoli.
Minlaton’s Watsacowie Brewing Company’s range of ice-cold beers can be enjoyed in the brewing shed or outdoor area, with live music and a food truck onsite most weekends.
For hearty pub fare, the historic Port Broughton Hotel has long been a favourite among locals and travellers.
Rest your head
From bush camps and caravan parks to historic digs, motels and luxury suites, there are plenty of places to rest up after a day of exploration.
The Yorke Peninsula Council offers a range of coastal bush campsites that can be booked online. Tiparra Rocks, just off a sandy track north of Balgowan, is an absolute cracker, and while there’s little shade and no toilet, the seafront location and stunning beach will more than compensate.
Four-wheel drivers can drop down the cliffs to reach Gravel Bay camping area, a secluded spot with a hidden beach at the southern end.
There are also plenty of campsites within Dhilba Guuranda- Innes National Park, including Pondalowie Caravan and Trailer Campground, with toilets and a barbecue nearby. Step back in time with a stay at one the park’s restored historic homes in the former gypsum mining town of Inneston.
For a truly remote glamping experience, book a seaside Ocean Pod at Hillocks Drive – an expansive property on the far-south coast, east of Marion Bay. Wake up to stunning coastal views before a day of fun on the beach and exploring rock pools.
For luxury digs, check into a suite or penthouse at Wallaroo Marina Apartments. Boat-owning guests can book an overnight marina berth.
Most South Australians know the joy of a Yorke Peninsula holiday, but whether you’re visiting for the fifth or 50th time, you’re bound to find something new to experience.
IMAGES: Sonny Coombs, Yorke Peninsula Council; SATC/Jason Watson.
