Head
west
Coffin Bay National Park.
The west coast of Eyre Peninsula is one of those places you want to tell everyone about while also keeping it a secret. Tricky to achieve and selfish for sure.
Words: John Pedler
From Coffin Bay in the south to Ceduna in the north, you’ll find spectacular coastal scenery, seemingly endless sandy beaches and a glutton’s-worth of tasty seafood.
Yet, the tourism industry here is remarkably lowkey. There are no sprawling resorts or high-rise hotels – just a string of farming and fishing communities living their lives according to the seasons and tides.
Well sheltered from the Great Australian Bight’s monster surf, Coffin Bay is idyllically located at the end of a series of bays. These clear, clean waters produce some of the finest oysters in the country. Coffin Bay Oyster Farm Tours takes guests directly to the farm where they can enjoy these tasty treats at their freshest.
West of town, Coffin Bay National Park is a vast wilderness of secluded beaches, dune fields and remote campsites. The entrance road is bitumen, but travelling deeper into the park requires a sense of adventure and a four-wheel-drive with low range. Check the tide times so you don’t get stuck on Seven Mile Beach.
Heading north from Coffin Bay, you can take almost any side road to the coast and find a great beach and magnificent coastal views. Many of these locations have designated bush campgrounds that can be booked online. Picnic Beach on the southern side of Point Drummond is jaw-droppingly beautiful. Nearby, a staircase leads down to the ‘swimming pool’ – a tiny cove protected from the pounding surf by a shallow reef. On a calm day, there’s no better place to while away a few hours swimming and snorkelling.
Talia Caves.
Murphy's Haystacks.
About 15km south of Elliston, drop into Locks Well Beach, if only to see the timber walkway and lookout – it’s a credit to the builders. The beach and view are stunning of course, and if you’re keen on surf fishing, this is a popular spot for catching salmon.
On the shores of tranquil Waterloo Bay, Elliston has a timeless country-town feel. After a meal at the pub, head down to the jetty and try your luck hooking a feed of tommy ruff or squid.
Just out of town, the Great Ocean Tourist Drive takes in dramatic clifftop scenery and quirky roadside sculptures. At Talia Caves, north of Elliston, you’ll find the waves have been busy sculpting the rocks into fascinating hollows and grottos. If the surf’s behaving, you can stroll into the yawning maw of Woolshed Cave.
The tiny village of Venus Bay, 7km from the Flinders Highway, is located on a narrow peninsula. On one side, boats shelter in an enormous natural harbour, while on the ocean side, powerful swells pound the mighty cliffs. This is a location well known among fisherfolk and intrepid surfers.
About 40km north of Venus Bay, Murphy’s Haystacks is an outcrop of granite inselbergs rising up from a farm paddock. It’s good fun wandering among the massive boulders that make up this geological oddity. The rocks are on private property, and donations to help maintain the on-site toilets and picnic shelter can be deposited in an honesty box.
Baird Bay Experience, about 28km south-west of the haystacks, runs snorkelling tours among wild sea lions and dolphins. Back on land, there’s time for a shower before a taste of fresh seafood and other local produce. This is truly a highlight of an Eyre Peninsula trip.
Next stop along the Flinders Highway is Streaky Bay, the ideal spot for a family holiday. The town’s idyllic swimming beach is directly in front of the Streaky Bay Foreshore Caravan Park. Swimmers can also take a dip in the cool, clear waters in the enclosed swimming area at the end of the jetty. Enjoy a meal from the 1866-era pub, or take in the glorious view from the seaside balcony at Drift restaurant.
For another dose of striking coastal scenery, follow Cape Bauer Loop Drive to the cliffs west of town. An impressive boardwalk stretches across a barren rock ledge to Whistling Rocks, where air pushed by the heaving sea hisses through fissures in the wave-cut platform. Further south, Westall Way Loop Drive leads to the aptly named Smooth Pool. Located beneath towering cliffs, the sheltered waters of this pretty lagoon are a snorkeller’s delight.
About 71km north of Streaky Bay lies the charming town of Smoky Bay. The long sandy beach is great for a dip and there’s a swimming enclosure attached to the jetty. Locally grown oysters are available at the aquaculture park on the outskirts of town.
The last stop on our road trip is Ceduna on the shores of Murat Bay. The fish-processing plants at the nearby port town of Thevenard offer yet another opportunity to pick up a range of fresh seafood before heading home. Or maybe catch your own fish from the town jetty. To view and purchase Aboriginal art from across the region, head to Arts Ceduna at 2 Eyre Highway.
In the evening, wander down to the waterfront to watch a fiery sunset over the bay, while reminiscing about your journey through this wonderful part of the world – just keep it to yourself.
Fishing at Venus Bay.
IMAGES: SATC/Mason Kirby & Sarah Parker; roamingaus; Tourism Australia; South Australian Tourism Commission.
