Byron bliss

It could be the near-perfect weather, or the stunning surf breaks; or perhaps it’s the lush hinterland that draws so many visitors to the Byron Bay region.

Words: John Pedler

This is the traditional home of people from the Bundjalung Nation, whose land extends as far north as south-east Queensland. European settlers began arriving in the 1860s and were involved in logging, farming, and even whaling. In the 1960s and ′70s, travellers in search of a lifestyle change – and cracking surf – discovered Byron Bay’s charms.

These days, environmental awareness is at the forefront of the Byron lifestyle. Practising sustainability and preserving the marine and rural ecology are integral to the community’s psyche. For surfers, beachgoers, nature lovers and city escapists, this is about as good as it gets. Plus, Chris Hemsworth lives there.

Life's a beach

Byron Bay’s main beach is pragmatically called Main Beach. It’s a broad patch of sand just down from the town’s shops, cafes and restaurants. Cape Byron provides protection from easterly winds, making Main Beach a good spot to park the family for a day in relatively tame surf, particularly in the shallows. For even calmer seas, head a bit further south to Clarkes Beach, or further still to Wategos Beach.

North of Byron Bay, an unbroken stretch of sand extends 12km through to the Brunswick River. Much of this is protected from development by Tyagarah Nature Reserve – a dense coastal heathland. The only public road through the reserve is unsealed Black Top Road, which leads to remote Tyagarah Beach. Lagoon-like Torakina Beach, nestled between Brunswick River’s breakwaters, is one of the most family-friendly patches of soft sand along the coast.

In a region where secluded beaches can be hard to find, Whites Beach, south of Broken Head, is just the ticket. Access the beach via a winding gravel road through the bush, then there’s a steepish walk down rock stairs to the sand. The beach’s gorgeous, forested backdrop, clear rock pools and smugglers’ cove vibe make it all worthwhile. There’s limited parking, so when the weather gods are smiling it pays to get there early.

Most surfers who visit Byron Bay are likely to head to The Pass, a legendary right-hander that peels off Cape Byron and offers lengthy rides. It can be a jostle for a spot in the line-up when the surf’s pumping, so it might be worth heading around the corner to see what’s up at Tallow Beach.

Experienced board riders will want a crack at Lennox Head, 19km south of Byron. Arguably one of the best right-hand point breaks in the land, Lennox turns on thumping swells that can challenge the best. Keep in mind that jumping off the rocks to get to the waves isn’t for everyone, and can be risky.

In stark contrast to Lennox Head’s roiling seas, freshwater Lake Ainsworth, a mere 100m inland from nearby Seven Mile Beach, has millpond-calm waters ideal for swimming and kayaking. Picnic areas and barbecues complete the picture for a fun day in the sun. The lake’s cola colour is the result of staining from surrounding tea trees.

Tallow Beach.

The Top Shop cafe.

Trail blazing

From the coast to the hinterland, there are plenty of scenic walking trails to get the heart pumping. Cape Byron Walking Track is a 4km loop that includes a seaside stroll and a stairway ascent through rainforest. Hikers will be rewarded with stunning views of the coast and mountains from Cape Byron Lighthouse’s lofty perch. Take the short side track to reach continental Australia’s most easterly point.

For an easy yet spectacular walk that might appeal to children, head to the end of Rutherford Street in Lennox Head and stroll along the 1.2km Lennox Head Boardwalk. Hugging a particularly scenic part of the coast, the boardwalk leads to Pat Morton Lookout above Lennox Headland, where the views only get better. Sweeten the deal with a picnic on the expansive grassed area overlooking the broad arc of Seven Mile Beach. If you’re picnicking between May and October, keep an eye out to sea for migrating humpback whales. For a tree change, head 34km west to Nightcap National Park. A 4km-return trek from Minyon Grass picnic area traverses ancient rainforest en route to the base of 100m-high Minyon Falls. There’s a scramble over boulders near the bottom of the hike, but a dip in the plunge pool will be reward for the effort. Less enthusiastic walkers can take the short stroll from the car park to the lookout atop the precipitous falls.

Country comforts

While you’re exploring the countryside attractions, check out some of the region’s quaint villages. Set among fruit and macadamia orchards, the charming town of Bangalow is known for its welcoming cafes with a commitment to locally-sourced produce.

If you’re in town on the fourth Sunday of the month, haul your tastebuds along to Bangalow Market, which showcases the region’s fantastic fresh produce. Sitting pretty beneath the canopies of camphor laurel and fig trees at the showground, the 42-year-old market is a great place to sample baked goods, peruse regional arts and crafts, and chill to the tunes of local musicians.

At the foot of Mount Chincogan, on the banks of the Brunswick River, the former logging town of Mullumbimby has become a haven for those seeking alternative lifestyles. The town centre is sprinkled with quirky shops, as well as eateries offering plenty of organic options. Or, if you’re in the mood for pub classics, grab a coldy and schnitzel at The Middle Pub, a local icon built in 1904.

Crystal Castle and Shambhala Gardens, 7km south-west of Mullumbimby, is home to an incredible display of internationally sourced crystals, set among beautiful gardens. Among the highlights is the deep purple, crystal-bejewelled Dragon Egg geode, which is so large visitors can sit inside. Two 5m-high geodes, revealing a galaxy of sparkling crystals, are unmissable. Another garden feature is a 9m-high, ornate Buddhist Stupa, complete with handmade brass Tibetan prayer wheels.

The Byron Bay region offers an incredible mix of world-class beaches and surf breaks, ancient rainforests, tasty food and drink, and a laid-back lifestyle that many holiday-makers seek. It’s a one-stop destination for the ideal Australian getaway.