Wilderness, wine and whales
Wilderness, wine and whales
The Fleurieu Peninsula is one of South Australia’s favourite summer destinations, but its winter charms are just as enticing.
Words: John Pedler
The cooler weather has chased away the summer crowds seeking sun and surf, so it’s time to embrace the Fleurieu Peninsula’s winter rhythms. Here are some weatherproof ideas for a coastal getaway as the temperature drops.
Wandering whales
As autumn ends, the waters off South Australia’s coast become a popular hangout for southern right whales. Late May to October is a busy time on their social calendar, as they escape Antarctica’s winter chill for SA’s more temperate seas. Sheltered in Encounter Bay, these gentle giants court and mate, while expectant mothers seek the milder conditions to give birth and nurse their young.
Find a vantage point to experience the thrill of seeing these massive mammals perform their aquatic gymnastics, in a show of body rolling, breaching and tail lobbing.
Popular viewing spots include Granite Island, The Bluff and Nakurami Kondoli Whale Lookout near Kings Beach.
At Middleton’s Basham’s Beach, you may lucky enough to see mums and their calves come in close to shore.
If you’re boating within the Encounter Bay Restricted Area, follow the rules and keep at least 300m from our Antarctic visitors. Or leave the skippering to someone else, and enjoy a whale-watching expedition with The Big Duck Boat Tours.
For the lowdown on all things cetacean, drop into the South Australian Whale Centre at Victor Harbor. Located in the historic Railway Goods Shed, the centre holds a wealth of information and exhibits, including a life-size mural of Encounter Bay celebrities, Buttons and her calf Bobby. These two stars have also been immortalised in a wooden sculpture, carved by sculptor Silvio Apponyi from a fallen redgum, and placed beside the Encounter Bikeway at Middleton.
If you’re around Victor Harbor in June, keep an eye out for other famous whales who might be attending the annual Winter Whale Fest. The program includes interpretive walks and talks, arts and crafts, and a variety of activities celebrating the richness of life and the wonders of the sea.
Above: Victor Harbor Tramway. Below: Cockle Train, Victor Harbor; whale watching, Encounter Bay.
Harbor highlights
Hit the rails aboard the historic Cockle Train as it trundles along the Encounter Bay shoreline. Take in superb views across the bay as the train makes its 30-minute coastal journey, evoking a time when rail provided a vital link between far-flung communities.
The service dates back to 1854 and was established to connect the Murray River at Goolwa to the sea port at Port Elliot, and later Victor Harbor. It’s mollusc-themed moniker stems from the days when locals would travel by horse-drawn train to Goolwa to gather cockles from the beach.
The Cockle Train runs on selected dates throughout winter, and passengers can buy one-way or return tickets at Goolwa, Port Elliot, Middleton and Victor Harbor.
Stroll across the causeway from Victor Harbor to Granite Island, or make the short trip to the island aboard the Clydesdale-powered Victor Harbor Tramway, which first carried passengers to the island in 1894.
Horse lovers, which seems to be most kids, can book a behind-the-scenes experience with the much-loved Clydesdales, including a visit to their stables.
Granite Island’s Kaiki walking trail is a 2.9km loop with views of mighty granite outcrops and the wilds of the Southern Ocean. Keep an eye out for southern right whales Buttons and Bobby frolicking in the surf.
Winter warmers
One of the joys of chilly weather is finding cosy places to warm up. A crackling fire, a glass of the local drop, and a tasting platter of regional produce should do the trick.
McLaren Vale is one of Australia’s premier wine regions, with more than 80 cellar doors to choose from, each with its own unique charm. Enjoy a guided wine tasting experience paired with a generous tasting platter at Hastwell & Lightfoot, before easing into a fireside Chesterfield sofa.
At Maxwell Wines, settle in for multi award-winning fine dining, while taking in glorious views across the winery’s sprawling vineyards. The kids can head outside to tackle the expansive hedge maze, so you might not see them for hours.
If you plan to make a week or weekend out of your McLaren Vale visit, there are plenty of accommodation options available. McLaren Vale Motel and Apartments, on the edge of town, offers a range of room types, including studio apartments and spacious family rooms. If the weather’s fine, grab some local treats and head for the undercover barbecue area.
For luxury among the vines, book a night or two at Karawatha Cottages, and for a fully immersive vineyard experience, try one of eight intimate CABN lodgings in McLaren Flat.
Above: Deep Creek National Park. Below: Maxwell Wines, McLaren Vale.
Accessible wilderness
The South Australian bush offers a great escape year-round, but in the cooler months it’s truly magical. Morning dew glistens on the grasses and leaves, and the air is clear, crisp and fresh. Only 90 minutes’ drive from Adelaide, Deep Creek National Park is absolute wilderness – if you don’t mind sharing it with hundreds of kangaroos and birds of all types, colours and songs.
The hilly terrain is split by deep ravines, and seasonal creeks spill through coastal bluffs into the blue waters of the Southern Ocean. Hardcore tent dwellers will find a wonderland of secluded campsites at hike-in-only locations Yapari Ngawanthi and Wuldi Krikin Ngawanthi.
Roads in the park are unsealed, but there are plenty of campgrounds accessible by car, with some suitable for campervans, camper trailers and caravans. Try Tapanappa, Trig, Cobbler Hill, or Stringybark campgrounds for a bush getaway.
All Deep Creek campgrounds have toilets and the drive-in camping areas have established fire pads for use outside of fire restriction periods. The Parks SA booking website has photos and specific details for each campsite.
If you prefer a solid roof rather than polyester or canvas, book a stay through Southern Ocean Retreats. Their range of accommodation includes the modern Ridgetop Retreats and the well-appointed, yet charmingly rustic Goondooloo Cottage.
The cooler temperatures are ideal for hiking, and Deep Creek trekkers are spoilt for choice.
There’s a range of trails with varying degrees of difficulty, from the short Goondooloo Ridge Walk among eucalypt woodland and spiky-crowned yakkas, to the challenging Deep Creek Circuit Hike that reaches one of the most remote coves on the Fleurieu.
That great lump of land you can spot across the sea is Kangaroo Island.
Super keen hikers can get cracking on the iconic Heysen Trail, which passes through the park en route to the Flinders Ranges, 1200km away.
The Fleurieu Peninsula is a region for all seasons, with plenty to do whatever the weather. Just ask the whales.
IMAGES: City of Victor Harbor; Getty; SATC/Jan Breckwoldt, Ben Goode, John Montesi, Adam Starr.
