The Garden City
The Garden City
Luscious gardens, award-winning food and a melting pot of cultures and languages. The bustling city-state of Singapore is more than a transit hub; there are surprises waiting to be discovered around every corner.
Words: Sasha Oelsner
On average, one plane lands every 80 seconds at Singapore’s Changi International Airport.
Thousands of passengers traverse the terminals each day to catch their connecting flight with little thought to what’s beyond the airport boundaries.
Out there, this metropolis – which fits neatly into Kangaroo Island six times over – is packed with history, culture and so many food stalls it would take more than five years to eat at them all, even if you tried a new one for every meal.
Singapore is a foodie’s playground. Gorge yourself at street food stalls and hawker centres for a handful of dollars, while at the other end of the spectrum there’s exquisite fine dining and high-class cocktail bars to discover.
In the central neighbourhood of Kallang, you’ll find the cheapest one Michelin-starred eatery in the world – Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle.
Number three on the menu is the star of the show and these cooked-to-order bak chor mee noodles will set you back about $10AUD. Expect to queue, and don’t be fooled by nearby eateries trying to cash in on the fame.
There are plenty of other eateries in Singapore to choose from, with the city home to seven of the world’s top 10 most affordable Michelin-starred restaurants.
Vibrant Haji Lane.
In the nearby neighbourhood of Kampong Gelam (also spelled Glam), you can step seamlessly between the country’s past and present. Sometimes called Singapore’s Muslim Quarter, this district represents the country’s Malay heritage. You can’t miss the distinctive golden-domed Sultan Mosque, while just around the corner, lose yourself in a maze of vibrant street art, shops and indie bars along Haji Lane.
In the nearby neighbourhood of Kampong Gelam (also spelled Glam), you can step seamlessly between the country’s past and present. Sometimes called Singapore’s Muslim Quarter, this district represents the country’s Malay heritage. You can’t miss the distinctive golden-domed Sultan Mosque, while just around the corner, lose yourself in a maze of vibrant street art, shops and indie bars along Haji Lane.
Continue your appreciation of Singapore’s multicultural fusion at the traditional Chinese Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple, a short walk from Haji Lane. Rub Buddha’s belly for luck and have your fortune revealed by a local oracle.
Kampong Gelam's Malay heritage.
Here, historic sites are juxtaposed against modern marvels, and the iconic boat-shaped rooftop platform and connecting towers of Marina Bay Sands is considered one of the most recognisable landmarks in Singapore. Guests of the hotel have exclusive access to the world’s largest infinity pool, but the public can experience the same rooftop view from the CÉ LA VI SkyBar. Located on the 57th floor, make sure you dress to impress for entry and to complement your fancy cocktail and the extraordinary panorama.
Once the sun has set, follow suit and descend to Gardens by the Bay below. Twice every evening, Garden Rhapsody takes over Supertree Grove with a free light and music spectacular. Be sure to follow the crowds to the centre of the garden and don’t be distracted by other displays along the way. You can return to explore the vast gardens by day.
Despite the country’s diminutive landmass, almost half is lush greenery, earning Singapore its nickname, The Garden City. After an early morning pick-me-up of Yuenyeung – coffee tea – you’ll be appropriately energised to explore the expansive and free-to-enter Singapore Botanic Gardens.
No visit is complete without marvelling at the National Orchid Garden, which charges a small admission fee for tourists. This is the largest display of tropical orchids in the world, showcasing their diversity and brilliance.
From blooms and bees to shopping sprees, it’s time to leave the orchids for Orchard Road – Singapore’s famous shopping district. Whether you’re in the market for luxury goods or just there to window shop, the area is a sight to behold.
The luxurious Raffles Singapore and the legendary Long Bar, just a few minutes away via the Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) subway, is a must for your to-do list. Savour the fruity flavours of your Original Singapore Sling cocktail in the same place it was first mixed more than one hundred years ago.
Sculptures on the Sri Mariamman Temple.
Don’t be surprised if you find yourself returning to Chinatown time and again during your stay. At its heart, the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple houses a museum dedicated to the Buddhas of the world. Around the corner you’ll come face-to-face with the impressive façade of the Sri Mariamman Temple. This is Singapore’s oldest Hindu temple and is decorated with six tiers of colourful sculptures.
Grab traditional dishes like chicken rice, xiao long bao soup dumplings, icy-cold sugarcane juice and sour and spicy noodles at the nearby hawker centre. Be led by your nose, eyes – and the queues – to help you decide from the more than 250 market stalls. Once your tray is laden, it’s time to find a place to sit, but be warned – a seemingly empty table with a solitary packet of tissues is not all it seems. It’s an unwritten rule that the tissues indicate the table has been reserved by another market goer. You’ll have to find somewhere else to dine and when you’re finished, don’t forget to return your tray to a trolley, IKEA-style.
Suitably carb-loaded, try tackling another of Singapore’s immense greenspaces, the 10km Southern Ridges. It’s a challenging trek, not helped by the humidity, that connects beautiful trails, landmarks and nature reserves. Once you reach Mount Faber’s peak you’ll be welcomed with breathtaking views and a cableway. These cable cars are one way of arriving in style in the very heart of Sentosa Island while soaking up the vista of islands dotting the coast. You can also reach the island by monorail aboard the futuristic Sentosa Express which leaves the mainland from VivoCity Station.
With so much to do on the resort island of Sentosa, you’ll need to keep some attractions in your back pocket for a future holiday. Spend a day or stay a few so you can join the mayhem in Universal Studio Singapore’s new Minion Land, discover your perfect spritz at Scentopia and swim with marine mammals at Dolphin Island.
Cable cars on Sentosa Island.
You’ve enjoyed all Singapore has to offer, but before you know it, you’re back at the airport. Rest assured, your adventure isn’t over yet. Changi has so much to offer, from a vortex waterfall and butterfly garden to mazes, shopping and even Michelin-rated dining, and with many airlines allowing check-in up to 12 hours before you can explore unencumbered.
Yes, the airport has more than enough to keep you entertained during a layover. But aren’t you glad you took the time to step beyond the boundary, and discovered the true spirit of Singapore?
Rest your head
Family-friendly stay – Village Hotel Sentosa
Located adjacent to Universal Studios Singapore, this resort has four themed swimming pools and hosts activities for the whole family.
Budget-friendly stay – Furama RiverFront
This hotel is the perfect springboard from which to explore Singapore located near shopping precinct Orchard Road, and cultural and dining highlights.
Pamper yourself stay – Marina Bay Sands
Towering over Singapore’s impressive skyline, this icon-luxury hotel has a guest-only rooftop infinity pool and floor-to-ceiling windows in every room.
IMAGES: Getty; Singapore Tourism Board/Active Silvers, Mount Faber Leisure.
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