Clare's
winter charms
Clare Valley Wine Tours.
With steam rising from hearty lunches, unhurried conversations by cosy fireplaces, and pauses within sheltered remains of a time long past, the Clare Valley's winter glow is why off-season travel is where the real magic happens.
Words: Sasha Oelsner
Cosy
Hygge – the Danish word for simple, delightful cosiness – is in abundance in the Clare Valley. Nowhere is it more embodied than at Paulett Wines in the township of Polish Hill River. Settle beside the open fire and watch fog spill softly across the valley as you sample plate after plate of comforting dishes, paired with rich, oaky Cabernet Sauvignon and plummy Shiraz – a treat for the senses.
A dreamy afternoon for chocoholics awaits at nearby Taylors Wines in Auburn. Visitors can warm themselves inside and out indulging in the dark and decadent chocolate and wine pairing while relaxing next to one of the venue's many fireplaces.
For another cosy stop, head just down the road to Pikes. Taste their renowned Rieslings and reds at the cellar door or try small-batch brews at Pikes Beer Co, before losing track of time over a long lunch made with seasonal local produce.
Taylors Wines cellar door.
Nostalgic
The Clare Valley's historic towns offer countless reminders of the past. In Burra, the Heritage Passport experience turns the town into a treasure hunt that takes you back in time. A key unlocks the doors to 11 National Heritage-listed sites, revealing the region's bustling mining history.
Explore the Monster Mine, once Australia's largest copper mine, step inside (and out again) of Redruth Prison, and visit the cave-like dwellings dug by miners seeking to live rent-free.
Just north of Burra, along the Barrier Highway, a lonely red brick farmhouse may tug at your memory. This is the Burra Homestead, better known as the iconic "Midnight Oil House" that appeared on the cover of the band's 1987 album Diesel and Dust. Crumbling but still standing, the abandoned building sits on private land but can be seen from the road. Be safe if you pull off the highway to stop for a photo, and admire the iconic view from behind the fence.
Film lovers may also recognise the heritage-listed Martindale Hall, nestled among the misty vineyards and paddocks near Mintaro. The grand mansion famously appeared as Appleyard College in the film Picnic at Hanging Rock.
Martindale Hall.
In reality, the beautifully preserved rooms, intricate craftsmanship and peaceful grounds feel worlds away from the haunting atmosphere of the film, and offer an enchanting escape from the winter chill.
Riesling Trail.
Fresh
What better place than the Clare Valley to practise uitwaaien – the Dutch tradition of clearing the mind by spending time in wild, windy weather on a brisk walk or bike ride. The 35km Riesling Trail is the region's best-known track, and a little winter air only adds to the experience. Hire a bike or plot a walking route, warming up between sections with stops at favourite cafés, historic sites and cellar doors.
Fresh air, fresh produce and fresh finds are never far away either. With a market held somewhere in the Clare region most weekends, slipping on your winter coat and browsing the stalls is a must. Regular favourites include the Clare Show Markets and Saddleworth Country Markets, held on the second Saturday and first Sunday of each month respectively. Stallholders sell everything from antiques and collectables to handmade arts, crafts, homewares and fresh fruit and vegetables. Additional markets pop up throughout the year in Auburn, Riverton, Burra, Mandoora and beyond.
If the Riesling Trail feels a little ambitious, let the brisk air bring a rosy flush to your cheeks on one of the region's many shorter walks.
The Cascades Walk, a 1.4km circuit in Spring Gully Conservation Park, is an easy but gently undulating track. It winds past the only stand of red stringybark trees in South Australia before reaching the waterfall, which is likely to be flowing during the cooler months. It's one of six short walks in the Clare Valley, perfect for active travellers and families alike.
Little discoveries
Travelling with a budding archaeologist? There's no need to brave the elements to search for fossils – simply head to the restored Burra Railway Station. Here, visitors can learn about the extinct megafauna that roamed the region tens of thousands of years ago, including the enormous wombat-like Diprotodon optatum and the giant flightless bird Genyornis, which resembles an emu.
All aboard! At Clare Valley Model Engineers, visitors can ride miniature steam and diesel trains along more than a kilometre of track through Melrose Park, travelling over bridges and through tunnels. Check online before visiting, as operating days vary.
For a cosy escape from the winter chill, swap the small screens for the big one at the charming Blyth Cinema. Groups of 10 or more can book a private screening and choose the film themselves.
Spring Gully Conservation Park.
Unhurried
Apricity, the welcome warmth of the winter sun, can be felt in the generous hospitality of hosts, with guests having time to linger a little longer thanks to fewer visitors during the cooler months. Perhaps it means an intimate wine tasting, or maybe you're looking for something more adventurous.
Keep your feet dry and let Clare Valley Wine Tour's four-wheel-drive take on the rainy vineyards and paddocks. Your local guide will help you discover the region's hidden gems, and you might even meet a winemaker or end the day around a toasty campfire.
The region has an abundant arts scene, which is ideal for escaping the cold. Take your time at the Burra Regional Art Gallery, housed in the beautifully restored 1860 Post and Telegraph Office. The gallery has a rotating program of exhibitions alongside permanent collections and events. Visit the historic 1913 courthouse in Balaklava, now home to a gallery and gift shop. Many cellar doors double as gallery spaces too, like Pikes, which features dedicated exhibition walls.
You can even let your own creativity shine when the sun isn't. Local studios offer hands-on workshops, including painting sessions at The Journey Studio where you can create and take home your own acrylic artwork. The region is also home to three towering murals on the Australian Silo Art Trail, which you can view up close or from the warmth of the car: the Storytime Silos of Eudunda, the railway-themed mural in Farrell Flat, and Wheat Bags to Sandbags painted across the Owen silos.
Burra Regional Art Gallery.
Winter may be the shoulder season, but by following the scent of wood smoke, exploring cosy cellar doors, hidden galleries and historic streets, you'll unlock the best-kept secrets of the Clare Valley.
Snug as a bug
Discover a slice of luxury with complimentary wine, private balconies and open living at Neagles Retreat Villas.
B&B on the Riesling Trail? Enjoy wood fires, spas and scented rose garden at the Brice Hill Country Lodge.
Offering a pet and family-friendly stay, the Clare Country Club also features a golf course, buffet breakfast, and spa and sauna.
IMAGES: SATC/heidi who photos, Josh Geelan, Vanessa Size; Tourism Australia.
